There probably isn’t anything better than crispy, moist yet brown roasted chicken. Normally we choose birds that are not too large to avoid over cooking and preparing a tough bird. The goal is always to cook a moist, tender and flavorful bird. Ideally cooking a chicken that weighs less than 5 lbs will make it easier to avoid pink chicken that is under cooked nor overly cooked dry chicken. And following Julia Child’s classic French recipe with lots of butter and finely diced vegetables we can make a chicken that is virtually dreamlike.

But the flavor of the meal will still depend on our own creativity and that is why the freedom to cook as we like can be a burden as well. As Kris Kristofferson put it as sung by Janice Joplin back in the 1960’s, “freedom’s just another word for nothing left to lose. Nothing ain’t worth nothing but it’s free.” But having choices in cooking at least can be a pleasure. I particularly like an Asian bent to my roast chicken with many of the following aromatics and vegetables: cilantro, garlic, lemon grass, lemon or lime, scallions, ginger, basil, garlic and mushrooms. I also enjoy combining certain vegetables with my roast chicken like celeriac, leeks, scallions, carrots, parsnips and turnips, especially when they are available such as white Cape Cod turnips. These all make a wonderful assortment. I am salivating just thinking about how extraordinary these flavors are in combination with one another.

Of course fowl of different varieties besides chicken are excellent tasting as well—such as turkey, duck, goose, capon or pheasant and other game birds like Cornish game hens. Each of these birds bring another dimension to eating, and all can be seasoned in different ways. For example duck, often called Peking duck when prepared Chinese style, is very popular merely seasoned with salt and pepper, but is also delicious seasoned in a French style with rosemary and a pinch of thyme and sage. Because of the amount of fat duck’s have, it’s most common to hang the bird after cooking for an hour or so to drain the fat. If you prefer now and then cooking with your duck fat like professional chefs who hate to waste food supplies, try it with French fries. This is truly a simple method the French enjoy and a wonderful side dish as well for everyone.
A goose is no less fatty but is more often considered a bird guests enjoy for Christmas or Easter that is prepared in a fashion similar to roast chicken. Goose is also enjoyed by many year round, although they are usually more expensive than chicken.

Capon is a castrated rooster that is a nice alternative to turkey. Capons tend to have more tender, flavorful flesh than chickens or turkeys do, as well as a higher fat content. And they taste a little different. Some even prefer them over chicken. They are often a bit more expensive than other birds such as chicken and turkey which are mass produced, but many gourmets claim they are clearly worth the cost. If you can find a good private butcher you like, ask him or her to order a capon for you around holiday time. You won’t be sorry you did.

If capon, turkey, goose and duck are not special enough for you or that special someone, try roasting Cornish Game Hens with garlic, herbs and lemon. Cook them at 425F until it reaches an internal temperature of 165F. This will give those who value having their own bird all to themselves a feeling of being extra special. These game hens can be shared, but normally are not.

Yet with all of these different options available in the United States, chicken has become the reining queen of the ball for most people. They’re reasonably priced and are available virtually everywhere. The array of aromatics, spices and herbs you can use to season the bird makes it as exotic or as simple as you wish.

Here’s my favorite chicken flavoring with snippets of Julia Child’s French style to enhance the buttery, attractive classic appearance. And remember as Julia taught us on TV, if you drop it, just pick it right up, wipe it off and continue. She told us right or wrong that if we pick it up quickly, we won’t suffer for it. Well, I would personally wash it off and season again. But whatever appeals most to you, do enjoy the recipe and the Asian version of this classic.

Asian Style Roast Chicken
Serves 6-8

• Fresh organic or free range chicken 4-5 lbs
• Unsalted butter, 4 tbsp
• Carrots, 1 cup diced
• Yellow oni½ons, ⅓ cup diced
• White turnips, ⅓ cup diced
• Parsnips, ⅓ cup diced
• Garlic, 2 tbsp
• Cilantro, 4 tbsp chopped
• Turmeric, 1 tbsp
• Fresh ginger, peeled and diced
• Fresh basil, 2 tbsp rough chopped
• Celeriac and/or celery stalks, ⅓ cup, diced
• Fresh lemon juice, one soft, large lemon
• Lemon rounds, thinly sliced
• Lemon grass, ⅓ talk diced
• Chicken stock or broth, fresh or fat free box of 1 cup
• Sea salt, 1 tsp
• Fresh ground black pepper, 1 tsp
1. Preheat the oven to 425F and cook for one hour after preparing the chicken as described here. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a skillet with the garlic, cilantro, turmeric, fresh ginger and lemon grass and cook at low temperature for 2 to 3 minutes. In the roasting pan, add ½ cup water to the diced carrots, onions, turnip and cleriac and cook for 3 minutes over medium heat until softened.

2. Wash the chicken inside and out with hot water and pat thoroughly dry. Pull the neck skin up over the breast and secure it to the back with a toothpick. Spoon all of the cooked herbs and spices under the chicken breasts. Massage softened butter all over the outside of the chicken with the 2 remaining tablespoons of the butter, then truss it. Salt and pepper the cavity and spoon into the cavity the cooked vegetables, a handful of cilantro stems and celery leaves and the lemon slices. Leave the remaining vegetables spread around the chicken.

3. Choose a roasting pan that is about 1 inch larger than the chicken and set it breast up on a rack in the pan.

4. At 45 minutes, remove the roasting pan and chicken from the oven and baste with the pan juices. Return the pan and chicken to the oven for another 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and test for doneness.

5. Specific Tests for Doneness: drumsticks should move easily in their sockets; their flesh should feel somewhat soft. If not, continue roasting, basting and testing every 7 to 8 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer registers 165F.

6. With the point of a paring knife, spear the chicken through the shoulders; lift to drain; if the last of the juices run clear or clear yellow, the chicken is done. Let rest on a carving board for 15 minutes; discard the string.

7. Spoon all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the juices in the pan. Add the stock and boil 5 minutes until syrupy. Strain the stock leaving you enough to bathe each serving with a fragrant spoonful. And fragrance is so important to this dish that you want to be sure to spend the time to complete this final step. Bon Appetit.

Please send comments, questions or observations of interest to Chef Alan at [email protected]. For details about past columns, catering or Chef Zox’s blog, please visit www.zoxkitchen.com.